A Classic Dilemma
Comments
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Actually, the last issue has already been mailed out so your first magazine may be the next one. In the meantime you can go ahead and send the ad in any time you like, just identify yourself as a new member and they can verify it. I can give you the information on how to go about submitting an ad, if you wish, just e-mail me: Jon Battle, HETDetailed@verizon.net (drop the HET before sending).0
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jsrail wrote:Dan
I never made it to Strugis, but my last bike was a 1941 FL (knucklehead-last prewar civilian production year). Cruised alot in So. Cali! But sold it to put up the down payment on my first house.....gotta have priorities.
Your big block is cool, but I want a daily driver with good mileage. My 88 rover is for off-road (and daily driving while the Hud is being built). I'm still a chevy engine guy, thats just the way it is. :-)
Personally, my gut feeling right now is to sell the car and buy another without so much original paperwork. But I'm not going to buy some POS just so this car doesn't get cut. I want what I have less a motor/trans for the same money. Heck, I'ld be willing to trade if the deal was fair. But I won't take someone's rust bucket either. But, I haven't seen anyone make me an offer.
Anyway, I'm still thinking on it. Thanks for everyone's comments....even the harsh ones! geez guys!
Jay
I think you'd be smart to resell it and find something more fitting to Hot Rod. Even with having to pay your shipping you should do OK. My 52 coupe that is forsale needs alot and is for someone who has done a complete rebuild before, acid dip body, etc. Your biggest problem will be finding a nice decent, interesting car without a motor and trans. You just don't see 'em anymore. That is the value of the Hudson. Niels0 -
Grumpy wrote:If you are just looking to put some 'historic' plates on your car, did you know that there are companies out there that will 'replicate' any license plate, just from a photo or example of what you are looking for? (I am thinking of having a 1945 MD plate replicated that says "46-HUDSON" - :cool: (already have an original 1946 'tab')... Cost? About a 'Ben F", per plate.
Not sure it will 'fly' with MD DMV folks:eek: - but they do allow YOM plates in MD... Best of all, because it is from 1945-1947, I only need one - for the rear - so I don't need to clutter up my front bumper with a license plate - UNLESS is says "No, it's a Hudson!"... QUOTE]
Yeah - I don't think any DMV would accept a recreation for licensing purposes. I Washington you can either get vintage plates for 75.00 and not have to buy license tabs or you can use a correct year State issued plate to license the car - that the route I took as I found a nice (for its age) 1949 Washington plate - acutally licensed for a car in the county I now live in.
I only wanted the South Dakota plates because those were the orignals from 1949
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Wish i had the funds to make you an offer on that coupe, it's a nice one, to be sure! Gotta get my '37 Terraplane finished before I consider another!
Oh, and reference the YOM plates issue. In all states that allow their use, they must be an ORIGINAL tag, no reproductions or vanity "phantoms" are permitted. You can restore an original license plate, but you can't have one "made".0 -
Thanks Patrick, I will consider any and all offers for a period of 2 weeks.
Jay0 -
Jay, I'm all about the swaps and what I have on hand. My 65 impala wagon has a
sweet 500 Caddy and a Gear Vendors OD. The 49 Hudson C8 4door I picked up this
summer came pre-swapped with a 55-6 308 and all the goodies,twin H,headers,
Cifford head, Crane ignition,full pressure oil filter. In short, she runs and knowing me
it won't be easy. I saw one like yours at a swapmeet in NE Ohio this spring. Partial
restoration.Owner supposedly died and the kids pushed it outside and left it. Very solid
and trunk was full of bumpers and trim (ALL RECHROMED) and still in the bubble wrap.
I can check with the guy but I'm guessing its gone. It is weird though,at the one
cruise I've been to seemed like everybody was walking right past a polished blown
big block Chevelle to check out my ratty twinH air cleaners... I've got a fresh set
of ARP studs for a stock style head but there later model 1/2",if your interested.0 -
Jay,
I tried to email you, but it didn't go through. I have a modest proposal, but don't really want to put it on the board- perhaps you could email me - mmittge at quik dot com (convert to appropriate symbols). Or call (weekdays) (360)748-0248 or home (360) 748-8026. Mike (WA)0 -
nhp1127 wrote:P.S.- Keep it Hudson...it is too nice to mess with! I've got a $1,000 52 Hudson Hornet coupe going on e-bay tomorrow. It is a big project and will be alot of work but money should be right depending on the bidding!
I guess this is what you're selling:
You're right. It needs a lot of work.
But if the body and undercarriage condition is as you say, then it would be a pretty good candidate for 'rodding.
Too much work needed for original-condition resto... although most of the important stuff (engine/drive-train/tranny) could be be transplanted from a Hornet sedan.0 -
Boy! You are correct....lots of work. Basically guys I bought my car precisely because the body and interior was very good. There are some minor rust issues and one stain on the headliner, but essentially I just need to do the mechanical end, which is what I can do. I have a guy for my welding, painting, etc., but I am not interested in a project to the magnitude of a skeleton-to-completion start-up. Nor am I going to pay $20,000+ for a completed rod. I'm a family man (without tons of cash) who just wants a cool car for my son and I to enjoy together. If someone has a project in the same condition as mine, I'm willing to talk, maybe we can make a deal. Or, maybe someone is willing to pay me what it would cost to get another coupe in the same condition as mine?0
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jsrail wrote:Boy! You are correct....lots of work. Basically guys I bought my car precisely because the body and interior was very good. There are some minor rust issues and one stain on the headliner, but essentially I just need to do the mechanical end, which is what I can do. I have a guy for my welding, painting, etc., but I am not interested in a project to the magnitude of a skeleton-to-completion start-up. Nor am I going to pay $20,000+ for a completed rod. I'm a family man (without tons of cash) who just wants a cool car for my son and I to enjoy together. If someone has a project in the same condition as mine, I'm willing to talk, maybe we can make a deal. Or, maybe someone is willing to pay me what it would cost to get another coupe in the same condition as mine?
Yeah - those kind of projects are only for those who have already built lots of Hudsons - have tons of spare parts and know where everything goes - or just want a gutted race car!
My 49 was not a skeleton car - it was complete with all the interior - albeit rough - but that gave me the opportunity to know (within a few miles anyway) of what the car was supposed to look like all put together and what parts I would need to get or replace.
Jay - is the plan then to not pull the interior or strip the car down regardless of your decision to rod-or-not-to-rod?
If so - I can see why rodding this one makes more sense for you from a project standpoint - just slap several thousand into the front sub-frame and new drivetrain (motor/trans/driveline/rear axel/steering/brakes) - oh yeah don't forget about the air bag suspension (another 1800 for front and rear), another 600-800 for a tilt steering wheel setup ... well you see where I'm going here...
If you are going to tear it down regardless - you'll still have a bundle of time and more money into it and the overall condition of the car is less critical (unless you are allergic to rust:) at that point. For instance - other than the bright trim inside the car - carpets, seats, headliners... are relatively cheap to replace in comparision to money spent for paint, chrome and mechanicals
But maybe if things checked out ok for less than a couple thousand you could get a running engine, redo the brakes, change the trans and axel fluid, put some gas in it and drive it.
Of course thats probably a lot of wishful thinking on my part - but it is - with the apparent condition of the car - probable and in the realm of possibility.
Did you see the Rides episode with Leno's Duecy? They just freshened up the engine and I'm sure brakes, tires (safety related stuff) and left the remainder of the car. I could see something like that easily with that ride of yours - and I bet you would enjoy driving the car that way - as well as if you had rodded it.
Anyway just some more stuff to chew on.. (OBTW - I'm still seething in envy over here because I never had a choice! :mad:
:eek: ) 0 -
Dan
I don't plan to change the interior (the clock stills works!) at all except for whatever I have to do for steering. I don't plan to repaint it anytime soon either. The Fat Man is already here (money already spent) and is complete stub frame and hub-to-hub for about $2,500 (including V8 coil springs). You mount it (no cost to me as my client has a metal fab shop and is a whiz with a welder and I trade tax work with him) and put on your wheels, power rack and pinion, is all included (even the larger Ford rotors-same bolt pattern as the Hud). I don't need air bags on it. The motor/trans will run me $2,500 w/ warranty and only 68K miles on them out of a '95 vette. That is a complete drop-in, all computers, wiring harness, gas pedal, etc. Yes, I'll have to get a new steering column if I want column shift, but I could easily put a cable shifter on the floor (though I don't like it with a bench seat). Drivelines are cheap and in fact I built my own on my old 42 Ford pickup (vette 327, powerglide, 56 chevy rearend). I'll have to do some research on rearends and measure mine drum-to-drum, but I don't see that as much of a problem. I plan to travel out-of-state with this one, so reliability is important to me as we travel with a toddler. I don't want to breakdown in the middle of nowhere and find they can't get parts for me. Too many movies where people get stuck in out-of-the-way places because their car breaks down and there is always bad things that happen to them! :-) And gas mileage as well. I should be able to get 15-16mpg on the highway as the curb weight of the pacemaker is about the same as a vette (I read the spec weight to my vette guy). Basically, I'll get the mechanics part going but not touch the interior or the paint. I don't need to. I'll redo some rechroming later, though its all in presentable shape now. The biggest thing I wrestle with is I don't think I can find another coupe in as good a shape as mine, and why should I give mine up for something less? It is my dilemma.........0 -
Drive lines are cheap - just part of the components to deal with - does your 2 door have a 2pc driveline with center carrier too?
The rear end would need to be upgraded - I at least have not been able to find a factory late model rear axel capable of holding up to modest HP that is narrow enough to be considered a "bolt-in" short of custom made (2500-2800 complete) or having a Ford 9", 8.8, or Chrysler 8" narrowed with new axels (around 1200-1600)
Mileage? :eek: You're really worried about mileage - come on - I thought you said you were a hot-rodder at heart Just kidding! With gas prices being what they are it's always in the back of your mind now when planning changes. Personally I decided long ago that regardless of fuel prices it's better to be drive something you love and feel safe in than sitting in a import cr@p box!
I haven't owned anything other than V8 cars or trucks in the last 20 years *in fact they keep getting bigger cubic inches* and don't plan on changing my ways anytime soon...sorry to all the granola loving-tree huggers out there - but I have my right to live as I want to - Live Free - Drive Free!
Since my goal with the 454 is "old school" I'll keep it naturally aspirated and hopefully get the Barry Grant Demon 6 pac setup (2400 and change! Yikes - I'm smelling sponsorship here...) because it uses the center 250cfm carb for "normal" driving and that would be as much mileage as you could get out of a 454!
I think with patience and time you could find a similar condition project car - there is always another car - but how much patience do you have left? When must you start turning wrenches before you can sleep at night!?
Oh, yeah - the often neglected subject of us car builders - where's your better-half on the restoring or rodding the car these days? Have you shared these posts with her yet? Will she even let you rod it?
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rambos_ride wrote:Drive lines are cheap - just part of the components to deal with - does your 2 door have a 2pc driveline with center carrier too?
The rear end would need to be upgraded - I at least have not been able to find a factory late model rear axel capable of holding up to modest HP that is narrow enough to be considered a "bolt-in" short of custom made (2500-2800 complete) or having a Ford 9", 8.8, or Chrysler 8" narrowed with new axels (around 1200-1600)
Mileage? :eek: You're really worried about mileage - come on - I thought you said you were a hot-rodder at heart Just kidding! With gas prices being what they are it's always in the back of your mind now when planning changes. Personally I decided long ago that regardless of fuel prices it's better to be drive something you love and feel safe in than sitting in a import cr@p box!
I haven't owned anything other than V8 cars or trucks in the last 20 years *in fact they keep getting bigger cubic inches* and don't plan on changing my ways anytime soon...sorry to all the granola loving-tree huggers out there - but I have my right to live as I want to - Live Free - Drive Free!
Since my goal with the 454 is "old school" I'll keep it naturally aspirated and hopefully get the Barry Grant Demon 6 pac setup (2400 and change! Yikes - I'm smelling sponsorship here...) because it uses the center 250cfm carb for "normal" driving and that would be as much mileage as you could get out of a 454!
I think with patience and time you could find a similar condition project car - there is always another car - but how much patience do you have left? When must you start turning wrenches before you can sleep at night!?
Oh, yeah - the often neglected subject of us car builders - where's your better-half on the restoring or rodding the car these days? Have you shared these posts with her yet? Will she even let you rod it?
My wife originally thought it should be restored, but after seeing what is out there (and the fact that I won't changed the exterior or interior, she says (without influence from me-that never works!) I should rod it. She only cares that I don't chop the top, which was never my plan anyway. She is a pretty stubborn woman and speaks her mind (I prefer that). She says "why should you get another lesser car just to save this car from hot rod. You've already spent money so do what you want!" Bottom line is (barring anything unseen) I got a smokin deal and no one can trade me a car in the same shape as mine for the same money. I think the seller lost interest after the head bolt fiasco.
You got the patience thing down! I want to start working right away, except that I have a hectic tax deadline coming up. But after that.........she goes up on jackstands, and the rest will become history. Need a closer look at things.
I like the six-pack idea. Years ago, a friend of mine had a 62 Bonneville with the 389 and six-pack........what a screamer! And thats a beauty of a car as well!
I do worry about mileage to some extent. This will be my daily driver and long-trip car. I sold my Suburban because 10mpg was too much and I didn't need a big rig since I got out of rock-crawling. We all drive v8's here, but my wife has a 2000 Discovery II and I have a 1988 Range Rover both of which get better mileage than my Suburban did. And I won't let my wife and kid drive one of those tiny cars that fold up like dixie cups in an accident. And these trucks have more than enough power for us. In fact, I pulled my neighbor's H2 out of the snow last winter with my 3.5L V8! The Hud should have good mileage plus good acceleration. And you get a whole lot more lifetime out of them now (my friend has 200K on his 96 vortec without anything other than tuneups and oil changes!). I would like an LS1, but its out of my budget. I figure rear end, steering column, motor and trans and I'll have less in my car than I paid for my wife's used Land Rover! And my boy (who, like me, has loved cars and trucks since he was born!) loves the Hud already. Its parked in my RV spot beside the garage and behind a gate which is accessible from the back yard. When he is in the yard he always runs over to look at the Hud and smile back at me! You gotta love kids, man! He'll sit in the driver's seat and try to steer that big 'ol wheel and make "vroom, vroom", noises (he's only 2 1/2)!
If I move one of the trucks in the drive way, I always let him sit on my lap (not going in the street of course) and try to steer. He gets the biggest kick out of that!
Jay0 -
On the rear ends.
The later model Dana 44 is up to the task of modern hp. The axles on the other hand, are not. I'm sure there is a flanged axle alternative for the Hudson 44 rear end. If you don't think the Dana 44 is up to it, just make a checklist of the most legendary muscle cars through Chrysler/Dodge history - the new Viper even has one.
It all comes down to the bearing retainer and finding a flanged axle (or having one made) that will replace the keyed axle of the Hudson. This is something I'm looking at, but haven't had enough time to fully explore and start making some calls about. The only thing I have nailed down as definate, is a Tru-Track differential carrier in lieu of the spider gears. I want to try and find an axle solution that will lend itself to either original drum brakes or allow some of the disk/parking brake combos out there for Dana rear ends.
As I've had a few "in transit" brake situations, I fully understand the logic of the "fail safe" theory in Hudson design. Although the brake failure I had could have happened to any system, new or old, it was very nice to be able to depend on the "fail safe", and it got me home without incident. One could argue that a dual chamber master cylinder would have accomplished the same thing, and I agree. However, there is nothing wrong with having an addtional back up if the juice all goes away.
I think you fellas really need/needed some time behind the wheel of a true to form Hudson before making so many expensive decisions regarding modification. I began my Hudson ownership with all the visions of granduer that I've seen out of these modification aspirations. I've since changed my mind.
Even when talking about your engines, by the time you build/buy these powerplants and cut them back for "milage" sake - you are going to be sitting right in the same hp range and milage range of a Twin-H, so you've really gained nothing in the modification. I've also been through this debate with myself, and a mildly hopped up V-8 won't get the milage a Twin-H would, not to mention the non-hopped up V-8's being at about parity with the Hudson in both mpg and mph.
I recently took both of my cars, and they are NOT pretty at the moment, to a show. Parked myself right in the midst of hemi barracudas, Hemi GTX's, and street rods that were simply gorgeous. I didn't get to see much of the show for standing at the front of the cars and talking about the HUDSON engine. While the Hemis should have had the crowd in my opinion, the Hudsons were always swarmed, from the FRONT. I have kept it in the back of my mind to do an engine swap at some point, the volume and voice of the crowd I encountered at the show, eliminated that notion once and for all.
When it comes to safety and modern superiority there are really only 3 things that stand out mechanicly about the Hudson. 1) brakes 2)transmission 3)power steering.
1) Brakes, the fronts definately need to be disc brakes. LaBuds already has that whipped. Even if you want something more substantial, cut the rivets off the hub and go with some kind of Wilwood hat/rotor/caliper. I've already outlined above the rear solution that I think is possible, also able to handle a Dana disc/parking brake system that would retain the "fail safe" option.
2) Transmission. The Maas chevy adaptation, or the upcoming K-Gap transmission adapter would solve the Hydramatic 4-jerk automatic. Its also not impossible to upgrade and adapt a BW T-5 or Tremec TKO to the original Hudson. In addition, the K-gap adapter will allow any GM bellhousing to mate up to the Hudson engine - so standard transmission and clutch adaptations will become even more accessible and possible.
3) Power steering. Somewhere out there is a power steering rack and pinion kit that is produced by HET members that will work on the present front end, a search on this forum would produce the name of the fella making it. The Hudson front end is superior in strength and geometry to a Mustang II. The Fat Man's catalog says specificly that many of the A-arm front ends of the 50's are just that, superior to the Mustang II. In addition, I played around with a Chrysler Concorde rack that is "center take off" and found that they could be installed on an original front end in such a way as to retain the stock tie rods, using heim joints at the "take off" position of the center link.
I'm not saying all of this to attempt to deter the rodding of this car. But I am posting this to try and explain that alot of the "rodding" solutions are generally not the best options. I wish you two had taken the time to get to know Hudson's better and discovered that some smaller scale, sub-system modifications would have netted you a comparable or superior car in both performance and "drivability", rather than replacing entire systems such as the engine/tranny or front clip. I think it not only would have saved you some money, but more importantly TIME - which is what I have least between the two (and I don't have alot of money!).
Many of the numbers I see being tossed around, particular for the induction systems of your engines, are dang near enough to finish up the mechanicals I intend to run in my own rod. $2600-2800 would have the 308 in snappy fashion for sure!
And, if rambo walks up to anybody in the "Old School" genre and proclaims the 454 to be "Old school" - he'll be laughed off the premises. That crowd is geared completely toward Pre-'65 situations, mix and match however you like but not beyond that timeperiod or technology. From what I gather of his modifications and excellent website, its purely a street rod with black paint - which there is nothing wrong with whatsoever! - but its not "old school" by any stretch of the imagination. That group of enthusiats are every bit as staunch in their techonolgy and whats permissable as the purists.
Good Luck!
Mark0 -
I think "Old School" is relative. When I was building street rods, a friend of mine put a 71 dodge 440 magnum 6-pack in his 33 dodge 1/4 ton pickup and a mid 70's chevy v8 in his 40 chevy sedan. I did run a 63 vette 327 and 63 corvair front ifs in my 38 5 window coupe, mostly because the motor was in a 63 impala I bought at an estate sale for $900 (I had a friend of mine run the engine numbers first) and the corvair ifs because it was cheap and I was poor. But most street rodders that had the cash were using mid 70's Mustang II front suspensions on their street rods. Now this was all about 25 years ago! But I'm sure this wasn't "old school" to my father and his lowered '49 buick! So I think that "Old School" is "whatever was done....when you were young." So, Rambo, go ahead and say "old school."
And as far as "staunch" Mark, I'ld rather not hang around people who accept nothing other than their own ideas anyway, thats not how I grew up in the sport. I can look at an original resto and say "hey, thats cool!" just as well to the guy with a blower sticking out of the hood of his sedan.
Sometimes I think there is too much "staunchness" and too little fun on these forums. Tolerance is poorly lacking in today's world as a whole as it is. Come on everybody.......lighten up! :-) After all, ya can't take it with ya!0 -
Sorry, correction......my father built a "46" buick lead sled!
Jay0 -
Great Comments Mark! I wasn't aware of a power steering setup to go inline with the original Hudson stuff - maybe I'll look into it someday - but I want to see what she drives like first.
I was hoping my car would be #4 condition when I bought it site-unseen but in reality it was more #5-#6 and was literally a couple of more years from only being worthy as a parts car. Had she been in #2-#3 condition - I would not have rodded it. In fact my initial hope was to restore the car as chronicled on my website - but - My wiring was shot - broken and missing, the gauges were shot, the interior was shot, and the motor was seized and missing parts - my only choice was a 30-40k restoration taking 3-5 years or a 10k hot-rod in less than 1/2 that time and money.
You may want to take a closer look at my 49 modifications. I am retaining all of the original Hudson suspension (front and rear) and steering including the front sub-frame. IN FACT - 99.8% of my modifications could be reversed if someone so choosed.
"Old School" is relative to just how old you are! I'm dropping a 30 year old 454 in my car - I'd call that old!
And really my earlier ref to "Old School" was primarily keeping the motor naturally aspirated, no computers, no fuel injection - although I will run an HEI
I'm also re-using many parts from the Hudson where possible - like retaining the original front motor mounts - that IS old school philosophy!
I'm also doing most of the heavy fab in my driveway does that count? How about using lead on all my body repairs - IS that "Old School" enough?
So yes - in the "strictest" of terms since I'm not using period correct parts (40-50's)this may not be 'old school' for many - but I am really aiming at a hybrid that encapsulates elements of 'old school' car building practices and some strategic technology updates that should be a bridge between "old school and new school" philosophies.
And if ANYONE want to 'laugh me off their premises' they'll have to deal with Rambo 1st and me 2nd!
PEACE
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I keep up with your car, and I do understand what you are doing with it. I pay regular visits to your website.
I was kinda shocked at you using the "old school" phrase, and suddenly got concerned that you were shooting for that particular target alone.
Shucks, I like your car. I'm really a fan of the gas shocks for the hood.
I figure that when you drive your car, you are going to be somewhat amazed by how it handles. Even how effortless the steering is given its completely manual. The only thing I miss about power steering is the "variable ratio" of most power steering outfits that make it cut faster in places like parking lots etc. but stretch out at speed. In fact, I'm so enamored of it - I dropped my own power steering ambitions. If the wife ever falls in love with them enough to want one, I'll probably rekindle the power steering project.
Before you plunk down the cash for a complete rear end assembly, do look into the Dana 44 modifications. It may save some money and you may come up with a good combo that the rest of us could benefit from. That rear end is altogether too common not to have a solution for the axles right square in front of us, but we haven't seen it.
It hasn't come up in the list of my priorites just yet. If I do get it worked out - I'll definately post it here.
Mark0 -
`Hudsonator wrote:I figure that when you drive your car, you are going to be somewhat amazed by how it handles. Even how effortless the steering is given its completely manual. The only thing I miss about power steering is the "variable ratio" of most power steering outfits that make it cut faster in places like parking lots etc. but stretch out at speed. In fact, I'm so enamored of it - I dropped my own power steering ambitions. If the wife ever falls in love with them enough to want one, I'll probably rekindle the power steering project.
My '53 Hornet is totally original, so there's no way I'd consider putting power steering in.
But I'll tell ya... If I were building a daily driver (or even a 'rod) with Hudson frame, power steering woud be a serious consideration. Non-powered steering is fine when you're out on the road. But have you tried parallel parking one of those old beasts? Cranking on that big 'ol wheel when trying to get out of a tight spot... you can really work up a sweat!
dave0 -
Hi Mark - I wasn't trying to beat you up - I was just responding to your comments and got on a roll.
The Dana 44 rear end sounds interesting - I have owned several CJ5's and know that they run Dana (not sure which one) front/rear ends and the CJ's also have the pressed on or keyed hubs on the rear - albeit with wheel studs - the worse design ever for an axel if you ask me.
I also know that you can buy 1 piece axels for the CJ replacements - what I don't know is if the bolt pattern matches the Hudson - I'm planning on using the original rims.
Just for fun I went and measured the CJ backing plate to backing plate 44" - the Hudson is 50"
DAK - I don't plan on parallel parking my Hudson EVER! I'll just keep driving 'til I find a nice safe place to park her on display!0 -
Why don't you do the car up as a traditional kustom. Keeping the old skool asethic. Keep it simple and classic.0
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Regarding the Hudson steering.......something I saw on the net relating to a '61 CJ3B:
Joel Kamunen comment at:
http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/Upgrades.html
He recommends installing a 49-54 Hudson steering column on a CJ3B instead of power steering. Just an interesting thought on everyone's comments on Hudson's steering.
Jay0 -
Sgnl50 wrote:Why don't you do the car up as a traditional kustom. Keeping the old skool asethic. Keep it simple and classic.
Hey man, that's MY gig!
Actually, I'm shooting for an Old School Rod with the '49 Super Six. Original Body, no modifications. The Super Six coupe is already spartan with no trim other than the rocker panel stainless(which it needs!) and the nameplate on the sides and back. Leaving everything original, and lucky for me the original paint was black.
The thought being, Speed freaks of the day would have went for what was cheap and plain, spending most of their time and effort under the hood. Been there and done that in my own day.
I plan on showcasing Hudson speed equipment and getting the old flatty to purr. Where I once planned on changing alot, I'm almost changing nothing with the exception of the Hudson speed mods of the day. 308, Edmunds dual carb manifold, aluminum 308 head, 7x valve modifications and camshaft. Borg Warner 3 speed with a floor shifter, button shifted OD on the side like a log truck 2 speed axle. Clifford header. I will run the Dana 44 with the Tru-Track differential (but they can't see that! hehe).
My daughter has named the '49 "Ol Lightning". Judging by the lack of tension in the rear springs, the name may be ironic indeed.
If I could find an Edmunds Head,,,I'd be in heaven! I might consider swapping some of the Aluminum 308 heads I've hoarded if somebody is interested.
The Wasp is going back original, with the exception of the intake manifold, I'm using a funky 4 barrel that is alledged to be a Hudson prototype aluminum single 4. I've finally laid my hands on a vintage Carter WCFB carb that fits the bolt pattern. Complete with the famous "Thermo Choke". I'll be using the stock exhaust with a 7x dual outlet adapter. End of mods to the Wasp.
When these two cars are finished, I'm going to take a look at my leftover parts and concoct a "Traditional Rod" with some serious engine internal modifications. I want this baby to be a drag racing machine capable of running in nostalgia competitions and at the "Traditional" meets & drags. I'd really love to find a 30-something Terraplane basket case for this project. A 4 door Sedan would work fine (I'll shorten the body, but need the longer frame). I can't bring myself to do any such thing to a good car - basket cases only for this one. But I do want a good Essex grille emblem - just so everybody knows its a Essex! I want to call this project "Terrorplane". It will be 308 powered, I'm working on a formula for 383 CID - may go 350 CID with a shorter stroke(more rpms) with a Hydramatic - as they were a fine draggin' tranny!
I've looked at and lusted over the 30 Essex coupe on e-bay - I just couldn't do what I intend with the "Terrorplane" to that car. I just couldn't.
Jeeps ran Dana 30 rear ends. Just a tad shy of the 44, and very prone to flexing the axle tubes under stress. I have had some experiance with those splined hubs and a little CJ5 I once wrenched on. It was a street dragger (WICKED!), we kept a the backend of the jeep full of hubs for the rear, they'd shear out smooth after about 3 good holeshots.
Mark0 -
DAK wrote:My '53 Hornet is totally original, so there's no way I'd consider putting power steering in.
But I'll tell ya... If I were building a daily driver (or even a 'rod) with Hudson frame, power steering woud be a serious consideration. Non-powered steering is fine when you're out on the road. But have you tried parallel parking one of those old beasts? Cranking on that big 'ol wheel when trying to get out of a tight spot... you can really work up a sweat!
dave
Keep ya slim and trim, Dave. LOL
Hudsonly,
Alex B0 -
i was just wondering who made this rule that a car has to be a total piece of crap before you can rod it? that don't sound like a rodders frame of mind. how about we switch for a while you original guys take the total junk and make cars of them and we use the half way decent ones. just a thought. lol0
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so when you go to a street rod show and there is a few thousand rods there do you honestly think we were all standing in line at the car crusher picking out cars hell no thats just a line we give purist so not to make them feal bad. lets face it its all money when its time to pick out a car to rod i'm looking at doing it for less and taking a total hunk of junk and bringing it back to life is not cheap. if i wanted a 49 hudson rodded and was going to put in chev motor and different rear end and maybe streering after that expense i would hope i didn't have to put much into body either that or all rodders must be rich. not looking to piss anybody off just rambling on!0
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frankmn wrote:i was just wondering who made this rule that a car has to be a total piece of crap before you can rod it? that don't sound like a rodders frame of mind. how about we switch for a while you original guys take the total junk and make cars of them and we use the half way decent ones. just a thought. lol
Hi Frank, You just said it.... there aren't many half way decent ones left. Car values dictate that in most cases one would want to keep an historically important car historical. Most people wouldn't want a 460 Ford in a 67 Corvette that was supposed to have a 427 big block Chevy in it. This concept applies to most "original" cars. Many guys had put 350 Chevy's in the first series Toyota LandCrusiers. They run great and make nice cars. Fact is however, original engined Land Crusiers command more money, are more collectable and have added value. The bottomline to rodding is that rodding is based on the individual's tastes. Not everyone will agree with the personal taste of a rodder where as an original car already has a huge following. Also, most complete restorations DO bring a car back to "stock". Thats why it is called a restoration.
With all this said, I am not against rodding in the least. Modifing a clean Pacemaker is different than clean Duesenburg but I just think it a shame to change something that has lasted for so long and worked so well. Obviously the owner of a car can do what they want but like anything, there is a potential good or bad consequence every time a change is made. Just my 2 cents and I'm sticking to it! Niels0 -
I'm not worried about dollar value at all. I going to be buried in it! :-)
Jay0 -
Thats my point Frank, I don't have the money to do a total ground up rod. I've got a toddler, day care, and not a big salary either. I'm not complaining, I like my work and love my family. This is just a stroke of good luck for me, mostly mechanical needed, not much I MUST do to the body now, in fact I want to leave the body stock for now. But, then again I'm a big fan of shaving and frenching! I'm sure there are plenty of original Pacemakers out there, so I become less worried about that as time goes on. I fully understand the resto people's view, and I seriously respect that. I'm just a street rodder at heart and I guess probably always will be. It makes no difference to me whether people like my car or not, just that I like it. Makes no difference to me what its worth, it will probably go to my kid anyway when I'm blind and half-dead! lol :-)
Jay0
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